Coming Back to the Hometrail

Monday, august 18
Mile 1940, Three Sisters Wilderness

This is our life.

Getting back on trail after a weekend of brewfest in Bend can be described in the following passage, as I remember from my stream of consciousness yesterday evening:

Trail treasures.

Fresh feet thump the dirt path, and the familiar creak of my pack, panting breaths, and tick-tick of my trekking pole bring me back into that old cadence. My ears are still feeling numb from the rides in pickup trucks that comprised our hitch back to trail. I'm sweating out the salt and toxins that built up after two days of rich food and beer. But slowly, the night drapes around and there is an overwhelming relief that darkness brings. Everything's softened at the edges, the sounds become soothing and rhythmic..

It's so good to be back.

More treasures.

Back with a bang!

Wednesday, August 13
Mile 1878, Mount Thielson Wilderness

Flash! .. Cracka cracka BOOM!

The sky lit up around me as I walked the rim of Crater Lake yesterday. It's the deepest lake in the US; one of the 7 natural wonders of the world, and we got to see it as the sky opened up overhead.

And it's been raining on and off ever since. Right now there's a steady downpour on my tent's walls that I narrowly escaped. I actually love the rain and what it does for the mountains I've been catching glimpses of throughout the day. The veils of mist give the hills a mystique that reminds me so much of the city I grew up in. I'll trade a little cold and tent anxiety for the beauty of the rain.

And hey, if worst comes to worst, I'll sardine myself into the Iron Dome with Stick and Laugh Track.

NoCal

Thursday, July 17
Mile 1265, Bucks Lake

Donner Pass, glorious.

Well, a combination of being out of service most of the time, being social, and being way too exhausted at night to write has knocked me off the blogwagon. From here on out, updates will be fewer but hopefully just as fun! Fear not!

Rubik's trail magic. We spent all day chilling with him at Gold Lake. So much fun! Needed relaxation.

Today finds me lounging on the back deck of trail angels at Buck Lake, sucking on hella cough drops. I picked up a cold a couple days ago and it's kind of a drag... But didn't stop me from pulling a 29-mile day yesterday. We're gradually going nocturnal this stretch to deal with the heat and humidity in these green NoCal hills.

Watching the world cup playoffs in Sierra City!

Hiking at night, alone, in the forest, is a funny combination of terrifying, exciting, and peaceful. I'm getting more comfortable with the dark on this trip, though, which is something I've been wanting to get better about for years. I'll intentionally leave my headlamp off as long as possible and hike by feel.. It can be really lovely and meditative when I calm down enough to enjoy it.

Squaw

Thursday, July 10
Mile 1143, Squaw Valley

Pattering softly
Rain is an old friend speaking
From outside my tent.

Squaw valley! Gotta come back and ski this place someday

Mosquito's knocking
I kill the infiltrators
They call reinforcements.

The Festy Hiatus

Tuesday, July 8
Mile 1100, Lake Aloha, Desolation Wilderness

Nahko and Medicine for the People played two sets. And then I met Nahko. When i told him i was thru-hiking, he wanted to see my calves. I almost died.

Whew, what a whirlwind of a weekend! We left trail nearly a week ago to hitch up to a music festival in Quincy. It was my first ever, and I loved every second of it! Four days of my favorite artists, trips to Feather River to cool off, water balloon tossing, and crazy amounts of dancing.

Yesterday, we left the festival but Magic Stick had a gnarly case of the 24-hour flu, so we hung out in Quincy park (where I stomped everyone in an epic game of hearts) til he felt OK enough to hitch up to Truckee. We stayed in our first hotel yet, and it was glorious! Hot tub time, movie watching, bed sleeping.. All good.

Stick was worlds better in the morning, so we hitched back down to Echo Lake. It was evening, so we walked six mellow miles into Lake Aloha. The mosquitos are swarming, but I'm in my tent, the bug-free oasis. So stoked to be back on trail!

Heroes

Tuesday, July 1
Mile 1089

I can see lake Tahoe! This is kind of surreal, because I remember when it seemed SO far away.. The miles are starting to fly.

Today, we walked six miles to the Carson Pass visitor's center, and found out that there was a pub 7 miles down the road where we could watch the US play Belgium in the World Cup.. and eat burgers.. And beer.. Sold! It's been so hot during the day that we don't really want to hike between 10 and 4 anyway. A couple easy hitches, full bellies, and an evening swim told us we made the right call.

More snow crossing on the Elephant's Back before Carson Pass

So we "her-o"ed, Magic Stick's word for hiking in the morning, partying in town, then hitting the trail again in the same day. I'm feel so relaxed about the trail and the schedule now; much more so than I was at the beginning of the hike. I am truly believing that everything works out, and having fun is the key to success on the trail. Being too strict with myself leads to burnout, and I'm in this for the long haul.

22

June 30

Laugh Track's 22nd birthday! 3 lakes to be jumped in, horse magic, and glorious vistas. A day worthy of Laugh Track's awesomeness!

Walking away

Sunday, June 29
Mile 1046, Noble Lake

I've been reading the classic novel Siddhartha one chapter at a time before bed. This paragraph stuck out:

"At that moment, when the world around him melted away, when he stood alone like a star in the heavens, he was overwhelmed by a feeling of icy despair, but he was more firmly himself than ever. That was the last shudder of his awakening, the last pains of birth. Immediately he moved on again and began to walk quickly and impatiently, no longer homewards, no longer to his father, no longer looking backwards. "

The miracle of rest

Saturday, June 28
Mile 1024, East Carson River

Owl made this sign so we can take cheesey photos by it.. He thought of everything.

I've been in beast mode for so long, pulling pretty big days with no zeros for a couple weeks, that I kind of needed an excuse to do nothing for a day and just heal. Thru-hiking comes with a variety of ailments, from a light cough to aching muscles to sprains and swollen feet. None are debilitating in themselves, but all together they make hiking a chore.

Before I parted from the Vashon crew, who went into Reno, I gave them my deflating air pad to take to REI for repair. That way, I had to wait for them to get back on trail 2 days later. And thus, force myself to zero! So I drank bloody marys with The Hoff, Zone, and T-Bow and watched them leave yesterday. I spent the rest of the day eating out of the hiker box and reading a sappy Nora Roberts novel from the lobby. It was very indulgent and so welcomed.

Today, I could feel the energy of a day's rest. Hitching was a piece of cake, and trail magic was waiting for me at the trailhead! Owl has it dialed: "Sonora Pass Café" is equipped with a WiFi transmitter, chocolate cake, cookies, organic fruit, whipped cream, coffee, beer, a dartboard with a mosquito center, and even a sign you can pose with. Freaking incredible. I spent the better part of the afternoon eating, chatting, blogging, emailing, and waiting for my buddies to roll in from Reno.

And then! I was interviewed by some ladies from NPR who are doing a segment on food in California, but were so curious about the trail that they want to do a separate show on just that. One of the ladies followed me up the trail for a couple miles to really get a feel for what it's like to hike it. So cool! I've been thinking lately about how much I'd love to have some audio recordings of this journey.. Such an underrepresented form of media, but just as poignant as pictures. Maybe I'll start doing some of my own!

Sonora

Thursday, June 26
Mile 1018, Kennedy Meadows North

That wind last night was carrying weather, to our surprise. Magic Stick felt the first drops at 3am and woke us all up. Because flat tent spaces were few at this site, I climbed in with Put-Put, the only one of us with the foresight to set up his tent. He has the same one as me, and it is very roomy for a solo tent. I was out like a light after that.

I woke up to a steady gray drizzle, the low clouds cloaking the peaks surrounding the lake. Put-Put and I loitered in our shelter until my deflated sleeping pad and a growing puddle of water necessitated movement. I packed my damp things and started walking down the flooded trail.

Somewhere between my accepting my wet feet and admiring the way mist changes a landscape, I realized that I really love walking in the rain. The last time I did this was day 2, and I was too busy worrying about drying my things out to enjoy it much. I've gotten a lot more relaxed about this whole hiking thing since then, and know that the rain will let up eventually and that maybe a dry bed will be waiting for me in 20 miles.

What i didn't realize was that an EPIC ridge walk awaited me over Sonora Pass. Yogi barely mentions it in her guidebook, but it is a serious pass! Exposed, cold, snowy, and incredibly beautiful; this was my favorite pass in all the Sierra, I think. All ten miles of it.

When we made it down to the highway, we were all shaken and exhausted by the intensity of it. A passing angel with beers and food eased our transition, and me, T-Bow and The Zone are headed to Kennedy Meadows North to find some hot water and warm beds. Magic stick, Laugh Track, Tuneboost, and Put-Put are headed into Reno for a couple nights with a friend, and are kindly taking my ailing air pad to hopefully get fixed at REI. I'll meet them back on trail the day after tomorrow, but now it's time for a much-needed rest.

Diving boards and Johnny Cash

Wednesday June 25
Mile 997, Dorothy Lake

Some days, like this one, just roll on by in a diorama of gorgeous scenery and good conversation. We pulled for a bigger day to make up for our lazier ones, and even the steep ups couldn't bring me down. I'm realizing what a mental game they are for me, and a little attitude adjustment went a long way. Of course, taking every opportunity to throw myself into a perfect alpine lake also helps keep the spirits up.

Johnny Cash kept me going through a lovely forested flat section this afternoon, and now we're camped at windy Dorothy Lake, huddled and cuddling and warm, for all intents and purposes. Magic Stick told us a ghost story about old Dorothy, the wronged wife who lost her children in the lake. Mmm, just what I needed to put me straight to sleep this blustery night.

Beach, elev. 8500

Tuesday, June 24
Mile 973, Benson Lake

Foodmoose (Tuneboost) lunching on Benson Pass

Through rolling granite
Though I swell, limp, and blister,
Beach paradise found.

Benson lake.. Magic.

Water is everywhere
Flows from cracks and spills on trail
Dive and emerge new.

Watery Dreamy

Monday, June 23
Mile 956, McCabe Creek in Yosemite Nat'l Park

Reunited with gypsy town at long last, we took a lazy morning to ease out of a late night at the fire in Tuolumne Meadows. I decided not to go into the valley - I'd rather come back and climb anyway, and not during peak tourist season. Even on a Monday morning, the parking lot at Tuolumne was swarming with people in clean-cut tees and boat shoes. I'm also not eager to lose the group I've been chasing this past week.

Tuneboost and the falling water. This is what I live for out here!

Lunch was swimming and sunning at Glen Aulin, some beautiful falls. It's the first water I've been able to swim in for longer than a few seconds. So glorious to be able to rinse off after a hot morning!

A cruisy afternoon, ending with our epic campsite near a roaring stream in a granite canyon. It tried to steal my cookpot while I was bending over trying to fill it, but I managed to leap in after it and save it-- and completely soak myself. At least I have fire, and campfire stories, and friends. Aw, I've missed them!

Mammoth

Friday, June 20
Mile ??, Near Devil's Postpile

Horses.. Nurturing my soul since 1991. Red's is a packer's camp just off trail.

Started my morning at Red's Meadow right with a soak in the hot springs that a local named Bobcat dug out above the campground. Then breakfast at the cafe, then starting the long series of shuttle rides to get into Mammoth Lakes. I managed to catch Red Bandit before he started hitching north for a family reunion, and spent the morning with him. He's getting back on trail at Lone Pine after finally recovering from an Achilles injury, and has promised to catch up.. We'll see!

Spent most of the afternoon loitering in front of Erik Schaat's bakery with Gage, eating delicious sandwiches and talking with whoever stopped by. One of these happened to be the father of the doctor in Bishop who looked at my infected foot, strangely enough.

I was anxious to get back on trail knowing that my group was just a half day ahead, so I called up a trail angel who had left her number on a piece of cardboard on trail. Sugar Mama, in all her glory, picked me and the Hoff up from the post office and carted us all the way back to Red's. From there, I met up with Billy Jack, Beeline, the Hoff, Banana Boat, Che, and the Animal. Like the herd we are, we rolled off into the wild.

RIP Sony Cybershot

Thursday, June 19
Mile 926?, Red's Meadow

Today was rough. I'm too exhausted for details, but the big thing is that my camera is now sitting in a watery grave some miles before Silver Pass. It was sitting in a hip belt pocket with a broken zipper as a stumbled over a waterfall going over the trail. I dropped my trekking pole and when I bent to pick it up, out tumbles my camera, plopping unceremoniously and irretrievably into the swirling stream.

My camera's watery grave

800 miles of pictures, gone just like that... It's hard to accept, but what else can I do? At least I still have phone pictures, but I'm bummed. Out of spite, I hauled another 28-miler to Red's Meadow. At least tomorrow will bring some good meals and friends to lighten the load.

Sunset just before Reds. Made it! If only out of frustration.

Girl Make Fire

Wednesday, June 18
Mile 879, Mono Creek

Selden Pass, with lakes like sapphires against tawny peaks.

Whew, the Sierras are no joke! Over 4,000 feet of climbing today, and I'm pretty well exhausted from the last couple days. A pass a day is a tough schedule to sustain, but hopefully a zero is in my future for Mammoth Lakes. Rest will be so welcome!

Selden was gorgeous, and the easiest pass so far--no snow to deal with, just gorgeous lakes. Caught up with a sister duo at lunch today who I haven't seen in five hundred miles; Half Dome and GI Joyce. Also, Paja, who's hiking the trail barefoot. A plus to taking a week off is all the people I get to catch up with.

Believe it or not, tonight my first night camping alone this whole trip! It's nice, though. I made a fire and read some Mark Twain that Thumby passed to me. I thought it might freak me out a little to be by myself at first, but I feel safe and content out here. The trail is my home.

Blockages and how to break them

Tuesday, June 17
Mile 858, San Joaquin River

The morning haul up Muir Pass was snowy and unrelenting, yielding a few false summits as I panted my way up. With Trailblazer in front finding some semblence of a trail among the snow, though, I summited by noon and hung out in the amazing little shelter at the top.

All afternoon I dragged, and figured I was just worn out after our 25-miler yesterday... Until at some point in the late afternoon, fed up, tired, emotional, I sat down and cried for a good few minutes. Not like a bad cry, just a cleansing cry. The Sierras are tough and beautiful, and so moving in every direction.

After that, whatever was causing a blockage let up and I got the biggest second wind. I practically skipped across Evolution Creek, a big ford, and continued skipping in sopping wet shoes for five more miles. I stopped, thought about my energy, and figured, why not? Another 4. And badda boom, 28 miles today! Just like that!

Found Spirit Fingers and his crew, who I hung with a couple weeks ago. Campfire and warmth to end amother big day.

Walk in Beauty

Monday, June 16
Mile 831, South Fork Kings River

Pinchot Pass at 5:30am

Wow. Big day. Two passes and 25 miles. Probably the most stunning of my hike so far. I was alone at the top of Pinchot Pass this morning at 6am, watching the sun slowly swath the mountains in gold.

All dat Sierra granite.. Yum.

All morning I had numbers in my head as I fretted over making it ten miles to the next pass before 11am, when the snow would start to get slushy and unruly. Of course it was fine, and I shared some whiskey sips with Sprinkle and Butterfly, two other lady hikers, before picking my way down the snowy north side.

I am a responsible bear canister-er.

The afternoon was glorious; sometime I realized that I didn't even have to think about pace and mileage. I would just get there, and it would be the right time. About a mile from my campsite I stopped to stare across the valley at a huge waterfall and had a teary moment. Intense gratitude for where I am, and that my body feels so healthy, and that I have people I love in front and behind me, and that right now it's just me and I'm happy with that.

The last few miles, a song T-Bow tried to teach me turned over and over in my wandering mind. I can never remember the tune, so the words just echo like a mantra:

I walk in beauty
Beauty is before me.
Beauty is behind me,
Above and below me.

Who builds a suspension bridge in the middle of the Wilderness?

Sunday, June 15
Mile 806, just under Pinchot Pass.

Kearsarge yesterday evening

I'm on Pass schedule now; strategically planning my days so that I only do passes in the morning. Otherwise, I'm postholing and spitting curses for hours through endless snowfields. Today's Pass was Glen, which Yogi described in her guidebook as being the steepest and scariest. I hit it at around 8, and passed hordes of John Muir Trail hikers on the way down, so doing it alone wasn't so bad. I have microspikes, miniature crampons, for my shoes, so ice is no biggy. Fun pass morning!

Glen Pass

Leapfrogged with Thumby most of the day, and now we're camped together right below Pinchot Pass. I caught a hitch in with him to the Trailhead yesterday, so we're bonding.

It feels kinda fun and free to hike solo and make all my own calls. It's a full moon in Sagittarius this month, so I'll take it as a sign. High time for some vision questing! Couldn't have picked better testing grounds for my newfound confidence out here.

Wild onion bagel! Nomnom

Seriously, who?!

Tomorrow's gonna be a big day-- two passes before lunch, and then hauling my ass up to the next pass, which is supposed to be a big one, for the following day. Phew! The toe's feeling great, but I'm readjusting to the altitude. Whatever!! Bring it! 25 miles let's do it!